Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Do you have time to wait?

If there is no priority for a new vehicle in your life, but you'd like one regardless, a factory order is a good way to ensure you get the best possible arrangement with regards to pricing or financing. When doing a F/O, you are locked in at the incentives (think 0%, employee pricing, etc..) at which you order, however if the incentives are different when the vehicle arrives, you are free to switch if you want.

For example:
  • I want to finance and it is currently under employee pricing with a fixed rate of 6.99%. 
 If ordered order now, under employee pricing, chances are by the time it gets here the incentives will have switched. You can verify this with your sales rep (we are NOT supposed to tell you, or lead on to the fact that we DO infact know which incentives will be running until when). I even have a calender style time table of the different yearly incentives and their start/finish dates.

With this knowledge in hand, order at the end of the incentives you are currently in. This way, you are locked in at the current incentives, but have the option to switch afterward. One piece of advice though:
  • The salesman and his/her managers are going to try and convince you that the incentives you bought under are clearly better, regardless of your situation/requirements. This is because is does take a decent amount of work to swap into new incentives. You should find the new incentives, understand them and compare with what you ordered under. You might find the dealer very difficult to negotiate with at this point because they feel you are already committed; your car is here, you are all hyped up to get it. Stand fast! If you ordered at 0%, but wanted all along to pay cash, check the new incentive! If you were at $40,000 sale price before with 0%, chances are the new incentives will be cash off and a shitty rate!
    • So if you ordered at $40,000/0% with $0 delivery allowance and now it's 6.99% with $5,000 delivery allowance you could easily swap to $35,000 cash + tax (the delivery allowance is ALWAYS before taxes).
    • Figure out what makes the most sense for you and go from there!

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

SC2 Streams.

Don't really have a decent post to make right now, so here is a link to the best SC2 streams website out there. Most people will probably have it bookmarked a long time ago but here it is regardless:

>Live Streams

Friday, October 15, 2010

End of the month? Better deals? Yes!

A lot of people will tell you that going in near the end of the month will probably result in you getting a better deal. This is 100% TRUE. With some exceptions.

  • Don't wait too long. If the dealer is trying to make a quota, once they reach it your retarded deal goes flying out the window.
  • Don't be afraid to be unreasonable. If it's down to the wire and the dealer could potentially make or break a $50,000 MFG bonus with one or two deals they WILL lose money on yours.
  • Only go in near the end of the month with expectations if it's something out of stock. Dealers do NOT get MFG incentive to sell factory orders and will be much less likely to F/O you a retarded deal. Losing money on something that isn't even made yet doesn't make sense. Losing money on something you need to move off the lot doesn't either, but has to happen sometimes.

Saturday, October 9, 2010

Don't wait for 0% just because it's 0%.

I see A LOT of people that specifically wait until financing/leasing is at a 0% rate (typical rate is 6.99%). I don't understand the logic myself, but for some reason people just cant stomach paying interest. Let me clear the air here:

If there is 0% there isn't any cash off. When there isn't 0%, there is a fuck ton of cash to make up the difference. Most of the time I find it's actually CHEAPER to finance or lease during cash incentives simply because of how much cash they actually give off. For example:

Vehicle has 0% financing, gets $0.00 delivery allowance (factory discount). Vehicle costs $30,000.

Vehicle has 6.99% financing and gets $5000.00 delivery allowance. Vehicle costs $25,000.

NOW. Unless you are financing for 7 years OR have a huge upside down trade there is NO way you're going to pay $5000.00 in interest throughout the term of the loan. The amount of the delivery allowance typically increases as the type of vehicle gets more expensive (IE. midsize car vs truck), However, this does not always apply. I'd recommend the following:

  • Go in during cash incentives:
    • Have your sales rep give you a finance or lease number at the current incentives.
      • Then have him/her take away the delivery allowance and change the rate to 0%
        • Compare numbers.
  • Go in during 0%:
    • Have your sales rep give you a finance or lease number at current incentives.
      • Have him/her look up previous cash model incentives(they can be found online by any salesman dating back for years) and compare vs the 0%.
This really depends on who you get, as some sales reps might just not want to waste their time with you if they think you are going to buy in 3-4 months. I had a lady come in today that told me she was shopping for a vehicle for June, 2011 and I seriously wanted to falcon punch her in the throat when she still wanted finance and lease numbers on two different vehicles in varying trims EVEN THOUGH I TOLD HER AND INSISTED THE NUMBERS WOULD HAVE 0, NO, NOTHING, NONE AT ALL RELEVANCE IN JUNE 2011.

Thursday, October 7, 2010


If the salesman tells you he is pricing at "invoice" on the vehicle and has no room left on it, there is still the "holdback". This is money the dealer generally won't give up unless absolutely necessary, but if you are persistent you can get something out of stock for invoice LESS the holdback (typically another $800).

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Small tip.

Don't get the manager involved in the negotiations if you can. The salesman is 100% commission, whereas the manager will be salary and therefore less motivated to make the sale. If you can stick with your sales guy, try to have him act as a middle man fighting with his manager to take the deal. A manager is more likely to get flustered and give you the flat out "no" then the sales rep is.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Used Car Tip

This shouldn't have to be listed as a tip on here, it should be common knowledge. When you are buying a used vehicle from a dealership, make sure you confirm a few things before you throw down the cash:

  • 100% ALWAYS EVERYTIME view the CarProof/CarFax report. Many times I've had a car sold and not even known it had a hit until the customer wanted a CarProof. Dealers are required (in Ontario) to disclose damage over $3000.00. 
  • Was it a daily rental? Lease return? Trade in?
  • How long has it been on the lot?(You can use this to your advantage if it's been there forever)
  • Has the safety been done? If yes, what did it need?
  • Check the price vs others on
  • Clarify before you buy what will be replaced.
  • Check the tires and the windshield, lots of times mechanics will miss small cracks in the windshield which you can use to get a brand new one at no extra cost.
  • Ask if you can take it for a few hours, or overnight.   
After you are cool with all of these and determine the price you want, right before signing, ask for a full tank of gas. Most dealers will only give you 1/4 or 1/2 tank with used cars. There is 100% no way they will deny you this request and you just saved yourself potentially another $30-$50!


Friday, October 1, 2010


Thinking about something fairly expensive? Like to upgrade all the time? Stop wasting fucking money and lease! This depends on a few things and is not applicable to all vehicles. For example, at Ford, our std leasing rate is 11.00%; so if it doesn't have leasing incentives just forget it.

Let's go over my leasing checklist shall we?!

  1. Figure out the price (same as financing) before getting into payments.
  2. Double check the fee's after you find your lease number.
  3. If you currently lease, check if there is a loyalty offer.
  4. Make sure you verify:
    1. How many KM's/Miles per year? (I often put people into 20k/year leases because it lowers the payment)
    2. What are the overage fee's (EG, $0.12/KM)?
    3. What is my residual rate (Determines what the vehicle is worth at the end of the lease)?
    4. What is my buyout (The price you'd pay at the end of your lease to own the vehicle**Is ALWAYS + Taxes)?
    5. What is my leasing rate?
    6. What is the term?
  5. Make sure you check what your options are for early opt out. In almost all leasing cases you are required to pay the balance of the payments in order to be released from the lease.
  6. Is it an in-house lease or through the manufacturer?
  7. Can you add extra KM's after you take delivery?
Remember, leasing isn't right for everyone but it is great for some people!

Thursday, September 30, 2010

Figuring out your financing.

So, you have the best price imaginable from utilizing my other tips. Now, you need to finance.

  1. Figure out how much your MAXIMUM payment can be monthly ahead of time (Eg. I can handle $500.00/Month) -> If you are comfortable at say $350 over 72 months, but can handle $420 over 60 months; do the 60 months (You will pay MUCH less interest).
  2. Go through the options with your sales rep. Some vehicles offer 0% financing up to 72 months. Even if you planned on a 5 year contract, if you can get 0% for 6 years, why the fuck not take it right?
  3. If you are buying during cash incentives (see: no 0% financing), make sure you verify with your salesmen a few things
    1. What is the rate? (Sometimes 60 months will be 6.99% whereas 72 months is 7.99%)
    2. Who are you financing through? (I find it's easier to get approved through the manufacturer)
    3. How much interest am I paying overall in interest? (The longer you finance, the more you pay in interest.)
  4. Is there a balloon payment? (Adding a bulk payment to the end of your finance to greatly reduce the payment. Many shady salesmen will do this without telling you. Eg. You pay $240 / Month for 60 months with a final payment of $18,000.00 + Tax)
  5. Make sure to clarify the rate AND the term. I put people into 72 month or even 84 month terms if they don't specify because it brings the payment way down. You dont want a long term like this. (see: more interest)
  6. Clarify if there is a down payment involved.
  7. DOUBLE CHECK IF THERE ARE ANY ADMIN FEES. Another thing that even I do all the time is figure out a price with the customer, then throw back in the admin fee ($299.00) when they want a payment. Often, you won't even be able to tell it's there unless you brought a scientific calculator and your 15 yr nephew.
That's all I got for today. I'll hit on the common issues/shady shit of leasing probably tomorrow.


Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Something Different.

I'm seeing a lot of blogs these days on TF2, Halo, HoN, WOW and even LoL. However, all of these games, in my opinion, pale in comparison to the glory that was pre 1.6 Counterstrike. In lieu of a normal blog post today, I preset you instead with the greatest CS compilation video of all time.

I know, I know. This isn't what my blog is about, but I'm sure a lot of you played CS and will enjoy the break from my poor writing.

And just for ref, I've seen Ksharp play in person and that part of the video gives me the chills at how good he is/was.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Ups and Downs.

Just for reference, for anyone thinking about selling cars, here is an example of what can happen to your income at any time (my night tonight):

2007 Ford F-150 - Didn't get approved, co-signed failed. ($1,200.00)

2011 Lincoln MKX - Customers Backed out.                   ($500.00)

2010 Ford F-150 (Mentioned in earlier post) Cancelled    ($400.00)


= $2,100.00 lost in one evening.

Feels bad man.

Monday, September 27, 2010

DO NOT Buy a Car Based on a Payment

I see this EVERYDAY and try to use it to my advantage whenever I possibly can.

  • You are excited, with a budget (eg. $350/month). 
  • You are more concerned about the payment than the actual price
This is a very very bad way to go about buying a vehicle. I always try and sell cars based on the payment rather than the price. Why? Because if you want $350/month, I can probably hit it without lowering the price, but extending the term of your finance. Also, you can guarantee that there will be admin fee's (atleast one) built into the payment.

ALWAYS and I mean ALWAYS figure out the price of the vehicle THEN get into some sort of payments.

Stay tuned for tips on making sure you don't get ass fucked with your financing, tomorrow!

Getting the best price.

So you want more ammo in order to get the vehicle for nothing?

Well, there is another answer, however it isn't free. I would recommend using this website regardless of what you are buying (provided it's a new vehicle), in addition to your ad's so that you know exactly what the dealer has into the vehicle. What's the website?

Car Cost Canada

This website will give you a detailed run down of the dealer msrp, invoice, holdback, financing & lease rates as well as the dealer incentives and kickbacks. Does it work for the USA? I have no idea! However, when buying a car in Canada, this tool is amazing.

Sign up.

Pick your vehicle.

Build it.

Print off the Car Cost Canada report.

Bring it with you and buy your vehicle for practically nothing.


Sunday, September 26, 2010

Protip: Trading in your car.

It's VERY hard to trust a number put on your used vehicle when you are trading it into a dealership. In order to assure that you are not only getting the best price on the vehicle, but the best price for your trade, follow the previous protips and use this one as well.

  • Avoid mentioning a trade with your salesman.
  • Focus on the price of the new vehicle.
  • If trade is brought up, say you are going to keep it or sell privately.
  • Get the price for the new vehicle.
  • Change your mind and say you are going to trade in your vehicle after all and request an appraisal.
Why is this necessary?

  • Dealers will use gross profit on the new vehicle in order to inflate the value of your trade (eg, appraised at $4000.00, you want $6,000, so they take $2000 gross from the new vehicle and put it on top of your trade).
  • This will ensure that you get the best price on the vehicle AND give you an idea of who is giving you the best honest price for your trade in.
Happy buying, until tomorrow!

Obvious Tip

Don't go into a dealership, sit down with a salesman and say:

"What's your best price/deal/lowest/etc"

I have never  seen this work to the customers advantage in any way what so ever, ever. Only thing you are accomplishing here is annoying your sales rep. This is what I picture every time I hear those words (which is very often):

Friday, September 24, 2010

Protip For Buying a NEW Car

Newspaper Ads

You've seen all the ads plastered in your local newspapers from dealers all over your area. You probably think that they are just annoying pages, meant to clutter up the newspaper. However, it is very easy for you to manipulate the salesman with one of these ads.

  • Search all of your local newspapers prior to going into a dealership.
  • Put all of your ads together in a folder of some sort.
  • Bring ads into the dealership and force them to match the price.
But I don't want the vehicle in the ad, I want one with leather!

No problem

Tell the salesman you want to add leather onto the ad price. If he doesn't want to do it, say you will go somewhere else or insist that you are buying if you can come to an agreement. 

I want a 4x4 and that trucks a 4x2!

No problem

Add it onto the ad price!

Not only does this save you all of the hassle of calling around, driving around and haggling with multiple salesmen, but it also saves you money! Almost all of the new car ads you see in the paper are listed at dead cost and are named "loss-leaders". If you can manage to add-on options from the ad price, you've just bought yourself a car at dealer net cost, congratulations your salesmen hates you (but you saved money)!

None of this actually happens. Regardless of popular belief, people are not this dumb.

Typical Day at Work

Pro Car Buying Tips

Employee Pricing:

Sweet! Employee pricing, the best deal evarr!

Don't be a dumbass and walk into a dealership thinking that because it's employee pricing, the price is as low as it can go. There is just as much profit in a vehicle priced at employee pricing as there is during normal pricing at MSRP. That being said, if you are buying a car and you go during employee pricing; consider the employee price the sticker, or MSRP and bargain your way down from there.

Good day so far.

Get called to the showroom to help a customer. Guy is interested in a truck on our lot that has yet to be stocked into our inventory, so we go outside to write down the info and find the keys. After talking with him, it sounds like he's ready to buy and the truck we're looking at is exactly what he wants. We check it out, go for a ride around the block then proceed inside to talk over the numbers.

After idle chit chat and number crunching, he's on his way out with the implied intention to call me tomorrow.

Couple minutes later the fleet manager comes into my office and asks for the keys/invoice of the truck I looked at with the guy. Said he had Jim from one of the leasing companies on the phone. He had been in earlier and talked to a salesman and was calling to secure the truck for his company. Through the fleet dpt.
What does this mean? It means I wasted an hour with this douche bag just so he could scout out the truck and buy it through his leasing/fleet company.

I guess it's not all bad. The dealership sold a truck, granted I don't see a penny and did all the work. Goodbye until this evening. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask in the comments, be it about a specific post or this profession in general.

I sold a truck... a month ago.

A month ago I sold a truck (one of many) and I gave it my typical fuck yeah face:

It was a dealer trade, meaning we didn't have it in our inventory but would find it from another dealer. The next day, we find and secure the truck and again I sport my victory face. A couple days go by and I ask my manager daily if my truck is coming, which he ensures me it is. After a week or so I sit down and ask where the living fuck is my truck; so we call the dealer while I'm there.

Oh terrific, they sold it. You can see the date of this blog, September 24th 2010. I sold the vehicle on August 28th 2010 and we have yet to find a replacement truck; all because my manager was too lazy and complacent to send over a check and a driver. Every day now I come in and ask the same question, to get the same answer, "No truck yet". My customer is ready to pull my nuts apart with his teeth and I dunno wtf to do. My face as of late will stay the same until he either cancels the deal or I find a truck.

The worst part is I'll only be getting paid $115.00 if we ever find his truck.

First Blog: Overview & Goals

Hello friends,

       The majority of the time you will find me complaining about how much I hate my job on this blog, however all is not bad. Most of the content will be completely over-exaggerated and drawn out accounts from an extremely bias point of view (mine) regarding the customers in my day-to-day activities that seriously piss me off/ stress me out/ make my life miserable. 

        You've probably thought that every car salesman is a total piece of shit, whose sole purpose in life is to rip you off and play you like a fiddle in order to make a dime. This is true, in part, for most of the fine gentlemen/women in the profession. However, some of us are genuinely there in order to help you get into a vehicle that suits your requirements (price, space, size, fuel economy, etc..). I've dealt with certain customers for months, spending hours and hours with them and they still think I'd steal their wallet if they left it in front of me. I can understand the stereotype though (based on some people I work with).

I'll keep it to one quick blog for tonight:

Mr. M came into my dealership looking for a vehicle that is in short supply. Naturally, in this case, you'd expect the dealership to totally rip you off and not budge on the price, etc. After going on a couple of test drives and finding out we have the exact vehicle he was looking for in the correct color, we sit down to go over pricing. We're in cash incentives right now; tons of cash incentives. What does his translate into? Cash off. Lots of it. Mr. M tells me he'd like to be at $700.00 / Month all in (including taxes, fee's, etc). After working over the numbers, I'm at $781 over 60 months (81*60 = $4860 difference fags) and have little hope of coming to some sort of agreement on price. 

After going over the difference with Mr. M, he takes my card and heads off, declaring that he will be in contact with me as we have the only car around that he is looking for. Fast forward a couple of hours, low and behold he calls me.


"Hey Mr.M"

"Alright, I talked to my wife and I can move my budget up to $725.00 / Month, all in"

"Okie, let me run it by my manager and see what he says. I think we're still way too far apart though."

"Let me know, if you can do $725 I'll be in this afternoon to finish the paperwork"

"Ok, bye"


So I head over to my manager, partially in jest because the deal would be outrageous at the price he wanted. I present my offer to him and he figures out with his lovely programs on the computer. After a few minutes he turns to me and says $725.00 is fine, tell him to come in we need to sell this car. I think to myself, "rofl great", call up Mr. M:

"Hey Mr.M , I have some great news, my manager has accepted your offer at $725.00 / Month and we can have it ready by tomorrow"

"Ohh great! Let me get my wife and we'll be down tonight"

This was September 16th. Today is the 23rd. I've called my friend Mr. M fairly frequently but he seems to have jumped ship. Won't answer the phone and won't call me back.

Why have you abandoned me Mr. M?